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No naira in Nigeria: What’s a cashless reporter to do?

What does a reporter do when he is assigned to cover a presidential election, but he has no money?

What does a whole country do, when it is called upon to vote in a presidential election, but nobody has any money?

Why We Wrote This

Reporting from a foreign country when you have no money is hard enough. Try living there day in, day out when you have no money. Welcome to today’s Nigeria, courtesy of the central bank.

That, more or less, was the situation our Africa correspondent, Carlos Mureithi, found himself in last week in Nigeria. A bungled central bank currency switch, rendering old banknotes useless but failing to make new notes available, left people unable to pay for the simplest things. And Carlos was left with his U.S. dollars.

Luckily his hotel took those dollars. And the woman who could not change his dollars at the airport (no naira notes) used her electronic banking service to buy him a local SIM card; he paid her back in dollars cash.

But few Nigerians have dollars, and many don’t have electronic banking either. So they cannot pay for a bus fare, or for a tuk-tuk, to go to work, or to school, or anywhere. So the tuk-tuk drivers make far less money than normal; one driver with whom Carlos spoke can’t buy groceries for his family because most of the food-sellers he buys from deal only in cash.

The incoming president has one priority – easy to say but perhaps harder to do: give his people money.

I slid a mint $100 bill across the counter at a currency exchange shop at Lagos Airport and waited for the attendant to hand me back the equivalent in Nigerian naira. It was Feb. 16, and I had just arrived in Nigeria to cover the country’s much-anticipated presidential election. My mind was spinning with plans to attend rallies, interview voters, and shadow canvassers when suddenly the currency attendant’s voice called me back to reality.

“We don’t have money,” she said, standing in front of boards showing exchange rates for different global currencies. “There’s a naira shortage.”

That was my abrupt introduction to Nigeria’s cash crisis. Caused by a bungled rollout of new banknotes, it had gripped the country for weeks in the run-up to the Feb. 25 presidential election. The crisis is bound to be top of Bola Tinubu’s “do-do” list, now that he has been declared the winner and Nigeria’s president-elect.

Why We Wrote This

Reporting from a foreign country when you have no money is hard enough. Try living there day in, day out when you have no money. Welcome to today’s Nigeria, courtesy of the central bank.

In a heavily cash-dependent economy, the shortage has left people unable to buy basics such as food and water, or to catch buses to school and work. For me, the situation was less dire, but it did require some creative thinking.

After the currency exchange attendant in the airport told me she had no cash, I asked if she had any idea how I could buy a local SIM card without it. She told me to give her the cost of the SIM card in dollars, and then she made an instant bank transfer from her personal account to the SIM card vendor’s. The vendor slid the new SIM into my phone. Crisis averted – for now. 

Carlos Mureithi

Customers wait outside a bank in Lagos, Nigeria, on Feb. 18, 2023. A shortage of legal currency has prompted some angry savers to burn banks down.

“Wasting fuel for nothing”

The origins of this cash shortage stretch back to October, when Nigeria’s central bank announced that new naira notes would be introduced in some denominations to fight counterfeiting and hoarding, among other reasons. Nigerians had until Feb. 10 to turn in old notes. Most did so, expecting that they’d get new money right away. 

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