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At oldest Palestinian camp in Lebanon, violence adds to struggles

Ain al-Hilweh, the oldest and largest Palestinian refugee camp in Lebanon, was created in 1948, when Palestinians uprooted by the war that accompanied the formation of the state of Israel fled north.

In recent weeks, the camp has been the site of an eruption of deadly clashes between Palestinian factions and Islamist militants, drawing the attention of the Lebanese army and raising the prospect of an even more destructive battle.

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An eruption of violence has brought into sharp focus the oft-forgotten plight of Lebanon’s Palestinians, who for decades have lived in crowded camps amid chronic poverty and limited services. Yet individuals strive to maintain dignity and hope.

For Mahmoud, who was born at the camp and has taught there for 30 years, the lethal escalation signifies a deeper crisis for Palestinians in Lebanon, a further affront to their dignity after decades of dislocation and poverty.

“We face a problem today as Palestinian people: The world takes a different view of us, after they see what happened in Ain al-Hilweh,” says Mahmoud. “We are proud people; we are well known for how well educated we are,” he adds. “What we are demanding now is to control these weapons all over the place.”

Mahmoud says “shrinking” opportunities and poor education have led young men to find paid work with armed groups, but he teaches his students to “see their future differently.”

“Our duty is to treat the problem, to make changes,” he adds. “It’s hard, but it’s not impossible.”

With a yellow pencil missing its eraser, the Palestinian educator draws from memory the layout of fortress-like schools in the Ain al-Hilweh refugee camp in Lebanon that have become the front line in a fight between Palestinian factions and Islamist militants.

Teacher Mahmoud, who asks that his full name not be used, knows every inch of Lebanon’s oldest and largest camp for Palestinian refugees: He was born there, taught for 30 years there, and feels deeply how surges of violence raise the level of anguish inside the overcrowded camp.

He points to a school parking lot on his map. Here, says Mahmoud, is where a senior commander of the mainstream Palestinian Fatah faction, Abu Ashraf al-Armoushi, and four of his bodyguards were ambushed and killed by Islamist militants at the end of July. The attack deepened a blood feud and led to days of clashes that left 13 people dead and forced 4,000 from their homes.

Why We Wrote This

A story focused on

An eruption of violence has brought into sharp focus the oft-forgotten plight of Lebanon’s Palestinians, who for decades have lived in crowded camps amid chronic poverty and limited services. Yet individuals strive to maintain dignity and hope.

Violence erupted again over this past weekend, wrecking a fragile four-week cease-fire with heavy gunfire and explosions that spread across much more of the camp. Another cease-fire agreed to Monday collapsed by Wednesday night, reportedly bringing the death toll of the newest fighting to 16.

Lebanese Army Forces began to deploy toward the camp, raising the prospect of a broader and more destructive battle. A hospital was evacuated after its walls were struck by bullets, and – with several schools occupied by fighters and damaged in the fighting – the United Nations is urgently looking for safer alternatives for 5,900 students to start the school year.

For Mahmoud, the lethal escalation signifies a deeper crisis for Palestinians in Lebanon, a further affront to their dignity after decades of dislocation and poverty.

Scott Peterson/Getty Images/The Christian Science Monitor

A veteran Palestinian teacher who gave the name Mahmoud shows where, on his hand-drawn map of a school in the Ain al-Hilweh refugee camp, a Fatah leader and his four bodyguards were killed in late July, triggering days of violence, in Sidon, Lebanon, Aug. 30, 2023.

“The Palestinians here want to go back, but they can’t go back home, and 75 years in we have an unresolved economic, social, and status issue, and it translates into these situations as we see in Ain al-Hilweh,” says Dorothée Klaus, Lebanon director of the U.N. Relief and Works Agency for Palestine Refugees in the Near East, or UNRWA.

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